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Experience Konark , the Black Pagoda

Image credit Konark in Orissa India is a marvel of human Endeavour, architectural imagination, and amazing sculpture art. Declared a World Heritage Site in 1984, it is neither as big as Angkorwat in Cambodia or Burobodor in Indonesia. But then neither is there the crowded tourists, bugging beggars or shops selling souvenirs. Flying from Delhi to Bhubneshwar took us 1hr 50 min but from Kolkata its only 45 min by flight. Hotels of all quality are easy to find because the famous Hindu pilgrimage site of Puri is close by. Konark or the Black Pagoda The Sun Temple of Konark was built in the thirteen century .It’s form is of a mammoth twelve chariot drawn by seven galloping horses. The horses are not visible, some are scattered in the surrounding garden wrongly facing the chariot instead of away. The full view is only possible from air but going around the Temple gives you a good sense of size and dimension. As our guide, an old man, told us the story of its origin as in the Bhavishya Purana and samba Purana. Narada tricked Samba the son of Lord Krishna and Jambavati into watching Krishna’s other wives bathing. Angered Krishna cursed him with leprosy. Although Samba proved his innocence the curse could only be undone by worshipping Surya. He was cured after 12 yrs of worship and to honor Surya the temple was built. In reality the Temple was built by Narasimhadeve (1238-64) of Ganga dynasty .But the reason is unknown, there are only speculations ,that the king was himself cured of a skin disease or fulfillment of his prayer for a healthy son or his successful campaign against Muslim invaders. A number of reasons are also put for the collapse of sinkara over the sanctuary of the main temple. The foundation was not strong enough; there was an earthquake or lightening. But the most interesting was given by our guide; it was destroyed by invaders because it misguided ships compasses. You see the structure is put together by iron rods. The Colossi The main entrance to Bhog-Mandap is carved with a lion mounting an elephant that in turn is on a man. The lion represents power and the elephant money man is overcome by them .The other prophetic way of seeing it is, the triumph of Hinduism (lion) over elephant Buddhism). This is where the rider of the chariot sits and where offerings were made. The platform is divided by three set of column of pillars , that direct sunlight at different angles in different seasons ,to the deity inside the temple precisely.Their calculations were perfect even then. The walls from the outside have hundreds of sculptures of medium size dancing girls or playing music. Is there a mudra or pose they have left out. The symmetry, warmth and liveliness hold you in spot. If you close your eyes you could see and hear them. It is to be seen to be believed. The Jagamohana or porch The height of the porch from the ground is 4meters and base to top is 39 meters, originally said to be approximately 61 meters. Built from stone brought from far off jungles, it symbolizes the most evolved form of Orissan Temple. Fame of this temple spread far beyond by sixteen century. Abul Fazl from Akbar’s court visited and remarked, ‘Even those whose judgment is critical and who are difficult to please stand astonished at its sight.’ The base shows a trail of 1,500 small elephants interrupted only by scenes of hunting or child marriage. There is hardly any depiction of the common man’s life. Animals portrayed were elephant, lion, horses, camel, deer, tiger, boar, monkey, ram, bullock and even giraffe. Naga and nagkanya are figures in the form of half-human and half serpent to represent the super natural and auspicious character of the temple. The most engrossing are the sculptures of men and women in various amorous poses like in Khajuraho. They are highly evolved and many will not feel comfortable with children especially with Asian values, I must warn. Often even the guides split families for the tour but they are most happy with young couple!!!! The refinement, skill and knowledge is unmatched, the idea was to encourage devotee away from celibacy. While others claim to test the worshipper’s piety. There are four large chlorite statues of Surya facing north, east, west and south but the entrance to where the deity was kept was closed by British Governor of Bengal in 1901 to protect it from flooding anf the gold diety was taken to England. The Wheel Historian K.S Behera says, the wheels are the crowning glory of the temple……which imparts a monumental grandeur unique in the realm of art. The wheel is decorated with beaded rings, lotus petals. The thin spokes have a row of alternate beads and disc and the broad ones are roughly diamond shaped. These disc although small contain the daily routine of a court wife, dances etc. They represent the 24 hours in a day, the 12 months in an year and in ancient times used to tell the time. Just put your finger on the axel and the sunlight directs the shadow to the hour and minutes on the wheel. It has become the trademark of Orissa and the chakra of India.


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